V6E12 - There’s Something About Big Bend

Written By Chris Shontz / @Venture4WD

This week kicks off in the southeastern corner of New Mexico, in Carlsbad. It was my intention to venture far south, into Texas, where I would explore Big Bend Ranch State Park, and also revisit some of my old haunts near Big Bend National Park, including the artistic community of Marfa, and the renaissance ghost town of Terlingua. However, I did not want to commence this 200 mile jaunt without first experiencing Carlsbad Caverns National Park!   A Subterranean Landscape Caving isn’t an activity that I have much experience with, but given the opportunity, I wouldn’t hesitate. I’m excited by the romantic notion of finding passages and ornate caverns, and casting light on them for the very first time. So much of the undiscovered Earth is right below our feet! Carlsbad Caverns is a National Park in southern New Mexico, just north of the Texas border. There are winding canyons, hiking trails, and scenic drives, but the main attraction is underground, in the form of an accessible and well-protected subterranean landscape. A large visitor center sits atop a high-desert plateau surrounded by a sprawling parking lot. When you enter, you have the option of taking the elevator down to the caverns, or hiking down through the natural entrance. I opted for the latter, and aside from a considerable descent, the path is paved and very easy to walk. The hike through the caverns might take one a half-day at a very relaxed pace. The entire trail is paved and lined with metal railings, with dim lights shining on various mineral formations, including stalagmites and stalactites. The main room is enormous, spanning hundreds of feet in all directions. It is truly a sight to behold! In the spirit of accessibility, there are even restrooms, a gift shop, and a small cafe near the base of the elevator. It’s a very popular experience, with a steady flow of visitors circulating throughout the cavern, so don’t expect any primitive cave exploration. Although I do recommend carrying a headlamp or two, so you can illuminate details in the terrain that would otherwise be hard to see!   Into Big Bend Ranch I had been to this part of Texas before, nearly two years ago, but I had visited Big Bend National Park, not the neighboring State Park. Big Bend Ranch State Park was said to offer a jaw-dropping landscape, similar to that of the National Park, but a less touristy, outback experience, with plenty of four-wheel drive routes and single-tracks to explore. It should be noted that both the National Park and the State Park are fee areas, though both are sensibly-priced and well worth the cost of admission. For the State Park, this does require visitors to stop at the Ranger Station, to pay fees and to reserve campsites if applicable. For safety reasons, the rangers like to have an idea of where you might be during your stay. It’s a big place! The Ranger Station for Big Bend Ranch is centrally-located in the park, roughly 15 miles down a winding dirt road which begins not far from Presidio, Texas. Upon my arrival, I explained to the ranger that I was interested in spending a couple of nights, and that I was looking for scenery, primitive roads, and hiking trails. I must’ve spent an hour with the ranger, looking at pictures, maps, and getting her recommendations. She was very friendly, and extremely helpful. Furthermore, the Ranger Station was equipped with restrooms, showers, and water-fill stations, all of which I made good use of. It can get very hot in Big Bend, so you’re going to want to keep your water topped-off as often as possible!   Rinkon One After selecting a campsite and paying the fees for my visit, I was off. For the first few miles, I was on a well-traveled dirt road. Then, I passed a sign that designated the road a four-wheel drive route. Beyond this point, the road was primitive, with interesting ascents and descents, sandy washes, and slabs of rock. This was never too technical for a stock truck or SUV, but still required an attentive driver. During the drive, I admired the mountains, the canyons, and the colorful rock formations. My route ran parallel with a wash that looked like it had seen dramatic water flow, but was now dry. The valley was lined with vibrant green trees offering profound contrast against the brown desert landscape. Wildlife was abundant, as donkeys and cattle could be seen grazing in the hills. Eventually, I arrived at my campsite, named Rinkon One, which consisted of a picnic table under a rustic shelter, and a metal fire ring. I parked the driver’s side of the Jeep up against the shelter, popped the camper, and settled in for a two-night stay.   Mexicano Falls The next day, I chose to do some exploring on foot, as I wanted to slow down and take a close look at what Big Bend Ranch State Park had to offer. As I studied my map on GAIA GPS, I noted that only a few miles to the west of camp, there was a feature called Mexicano Falls. I couldn’t imagine that there’d be water in this dry setting, but the contours of the terrain looked interesting, so I set off to find the falls. The trail, marked only by an occasional cairn, followed a wash through a rocky canyon flanked by high-desert. Unlike the surrounding desert, this valley was filled with long grass and green trees. It was lush and full of life, and as I progressed, a trickle of water began to flow. My hike terminated at the falls, which consisted of a large, semi-circular amphitheater of vertical cliffs. These cliffs were adorned with green plants and trees, and where the concentration of flora was the highest, there was a tall cavity where water fell gently like rain. This was one of those amazing and memorable places that reminded me of how wonderful it is to explore off the beaten path!   Viva Terlingua Following my stay at Big Bend Ranch State Park, I ventured a short distance to the east, to conclude the week in Terlingua. My goal was to enjoy some food and refreshments in the secluded, Texas, small-town. While Terlingua is called a “ghost town” it isn’t completely abandoned. It’s only a ghost town in that there was a mining boom in the very early 20th century, and then it was gone, leaving a sparsely-populated, dilapidated town in its wake. Today, Terlingua is home to artists, travelers, adventurers, and escapees, with a rough-around-the-edges, but very welcoming vibe. There is a saloon where I had lunch, and then the Starlight Theater - a family-friendly venue, where one can enjoy food, libations, and live entertainment. Terlingua, in my opinion, is an essential part of the Big Bend experience. [gallery columns="5" size="large" link="file" ids="https://ok4wd.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/v6e12-19.jpg|,https://ok4wd.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/v6e12-1.jpg|,https://ok4wd.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/v6e12-2.jpg|,https://ok4wd.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/v6e12-3.jpg|,https://ok4wd.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/v6e12-4.jpg|,https://ok4wd.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/v6e12-5.jpg|,https://ok4wd.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/v6e12-6.jpg|,https://ok4wd.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/v6e12-7.jpg|,https://ok4wd.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/v6e12-8.jpg|,https://ok4wd.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/v6e12-9.jpg|,https://ok4wd.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/v6e12-10.jpg|,https://ok4wd.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/v6e12-11.jpg|,https://ok4wd.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/v6e12-12.jpg|,https://ok4wd.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/v6e12-13.jpg|,https://ok4wd.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/v6e12-14.jpg|,https://ok4wd.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/v6e12-15.jpg|,https://ok4wd.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/v6e12-16.jpg|,https://ok4wd.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/v6e12-17.jpg|,https://ok4wd.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/v6e12-18.jpg|,https://ok4wd.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/v6e12-20.jpg|"]