Journey to the North Rim
Following an extraordinary adventure in Sedona, it was my intention to visit another popular attraction that I had never seen in person - The Grand Canyon.
From what I had learned through word-of-mouth, and through minimal research on the Internet, there are two primary Grand Canyon destinations:
You have the South Rim, which is biased toward tourist traffic. It is my understanding that there are parking lots, paved walkways, viewing platforms, hand rails, and gift shops. It is a comfortable and accessible experience.
Then you have the North Rim. While the North Rim is still popular, as I found, it can only be accessed via miles of dirt road. One can choose from a multitude of primitive vistas, and spend the night camped in the adjacent Kaibab National Forest. This is the wilder, more remote experience.
The Drive into Kaibab
I traveled north out of Sedona, through Flagstaff, and followed a long, straight highway for what must've been a few hours. Vast expanses of Arizona desert, and Native American reservations, were visible in all directions.
To the east, the sky was filled with an ominous yellow haze from a regional wildfire, as I drove past multi-colored buttes, and traversed bridges spanning deep, desert chasms.
Eventually, I came to the Vermillion Cliffs, which marked the northern extremity of my drive, and where the two-lane highway turned westward into Kaibab National Forest.
Ranger Station Recon
As I enter new, unfamiliar National Forests, I make it a practice to visit the ranger stations for information. I basically ask, “I explore forest roads in my camper-equipped Jeep, and I look for remote places to spend the night. What do I need to know?”
Most of the time, I’m met with a blank stare. However, every now and then, I’m met with an enthusiastic ranger who is eager to offer insight. Fortunately, the latter was the case in Kaibab, and the helpful ranger explained that there were no fees, or permits required to enjoy Kaibab National Forest. At which point, he presented a photocopy of a paper map, and circled a series of vistas overlooking the canyon that I might want to check out.
It was getting late in the day, so I thanked him for sharing his knowledge, and went on my way.
Shades of Green and Blue
As I resumed driving south on the paved road toward the North Rim, I was mesmerized by the sprawling, vibrant green pastures, and how they contrasted with the deep blue sky. The sky was dotted with puffy white clouds, and the pastures were lined with clusters of aspen trees.
While there was also some variety, this type of setting was a regular occurrence in Kaibab National Forest above the North Rim. It was incredibly serene, and a dramatic deviation from the stereotype that Arizona is entirely a rock-laden, desert landscape.
A Labyrinth of Dirt Roads
After driving south from the ranger station for a dozen miles, I finally turned westbound onto a dirt road, with my sights set on one of the northernmost vistas.
The vistas were still miles away, and the dirt roads varied from well-traveled, smooth gravel roads, to eroded two-tracks. My basemap on GaiaGPS revealed a vast network of forest roads, as I happened upon numerous intersections.
This is a phenomenal place to explore! There is no telling what one might discover simply by wandering here. I think the allure of The Grand Canyon distracts most from grandeur of the neighboring forest, and it subsequently goes overlooked.
Camping by the Vista
On my way to the vista, after traveling miles of forest road, I didn’t encounter a soul. I thought for sure I’d be able to pop my camper on some secluded overlook that I’d have all to myself.
That wasn’t the case.
It was the weekend, during peak season, and as I approached the vista, I encountered car after car. Every clearing that featured a fire ring was occupied, and there were large groups of mountain bikers everywhere. The idyllic, secluded Grand Canyon experience that I had hoped for was stymied.
I drove to five different vistas before sunset, hoping to find one to call my own, but it wasn’t to be. I ended up pulling off to the side of the road near one of the overlooks, and popped my camper there. To add insult to injury, there was a strong wind blowing in from the canyon that deprived the experience of any peace.
Despite my improvised campsite, I did enjoy watching the sun set over the canyon with several other very nice people, and it was a sight to behold!
Back to the Woods
Largely dissatisfied by my experience on the vista (aside from the view), the next morning I opted to head back into Kaibab to find a nice place to spend a couple of evenings.
Down a secluded two-track, within only a mile or two from the nearest vista, I found a vacant campsite nestled in a grove of pine trees located on the edge of a big green pasture. Aside from the occasional gust of wind that blew plumes of dust up from the nearby forest road, it was a gorgeous spot.
I popped my camper, deployed my ARB Awning for some shade, and settled in!
About the Grand Canyon
The Grand Canyon is beautiful. It’s a marvel, and it’s worthy of your bucket list. However, standing on an overlook, whether it’s a viewing platform or a rocky outcropping, is not the correct way to enjoy it. Looking at it is only one step better than admiring a post card.
You have to interact with it and immerse yourself in it. I did not do that, and I firmly believe that I missed out by simply watching it from the sidelines.
