A Caricature of Red Rocks in Arizona- Part 1

From eastern Arizona, I resumed traveling west, once again to Flagstaff to make a quick stop for a new pair of shoes at the local outfitter. I believe I must’ve configured my GPS to “avoid highways” as I enjoyed some spectacular scenery in rural Arizona that I hadn’t seen during my first trip through. There were rolling hills; some of which were barren, while others were forested. There were rocky buttes and plateaus, towering cliffs, and charming resort towns. The splendor escalated steadily as I traveled westward through Coconino National Forest. South of Flagstaff, near Mormon Lake, the landscape was predominantly wilderness. There countless forest roads branching off of the pavement, some of which were closed due to active wilderness fires in the vicinity It was lovely. If you ever get the chance, plan a relaxing drive through central Arizona’s back roads just for the scenery!  

Gateway to Sedona

After gearing up in Flagstaff, I traveled south on I-17, and then turned northbound on route 179, which enters Sedona, Arizona, from the south. I’ve seen pictures of the red sandstone wilderness surrounding Sedona. They’re all spectacular images depicting vibrant red rock landscapes. I was only a handful of miles to the south, and while the terrain was rocky and mountainous, it was neither red nor very dramatic. Then, just before arriving at the Red Rock Visitor Center and Ranger Station, stunning red buttes and plateaus appeared on the horizon. I was astonished; not by their sudden appearance, but by their brilliance. I had always assumed that the pictures were heavily processed, with exaggerated colors. However, this was clearly not the case. The mountainous red formations seemed to be caricatures of themselves, as if painted by some divine artist. Seeing such a landscape for the very first time was unreal.  

Ranger Station Recon

I pulled into the Ranger Station off of route 179, which was very busy and well-appointed with numerous interesting displays. There, I waited in line at the information desk for help. Similar to my experience in Big Bend, rangers don’t seem to be accustomed to random wanderers such as myself. I told the ranger that it was my intention to drive into the wilderness and find a primitive place to camp, and she seemed slightly baffled. “What do I need to know?” I asked. First, I needed to purchase an inexpensive backcountry permit that was good for seven days. I could do so at an automated ticket dispenser outside the entrance of the ranger station. Second, I could only camp where it was clearly marked. For the most part, this was outside of Sedona’s city limits. The ranger recommended Schnebly Hill Road, which is a very popular four-wheel drive route that travels east from Sedona. Once you travel beyond Schnebly Hill Vista, dispersed camping is permitted. After ensuring that I was in a sufficiently-equipped vehicle, the ranger sent my on my way.  

A Haven for Tourists

I continued north through the Village of Oak Creek, a small town adjacent to Sedona, and then into Sedona itself. The main stretch was heavily populated with restaurants, stores, hotels, inns, and vehicle rentals. It was a bustling community, and a good place to spend tons of money! As much as I try to avoid tourist destinations, these places are usually popular for a very good reason. Sedona is surrounded by a gorgeous, must-see landscape. For many, it’s a spiritual destination, and for others, it’s a great destination for outdoor recreation. Fortunately, if it is your aim to explore the surrounding wilderness, the crowds thin out considerably, and seclusion is still easily attainable.  

Rescue Mission

The entrance to Schnebly Hill Road was off of a paved road in a relatively residential area. I would have to travel a number of miles to reach the vista, so I opted to air down as soon as I left the pavement. While doing so, a nervous woman approached me. She had been waiting for two hours in the hot sun while her son and her husband set off on foot to track down a missing wallet. I offered her some water, which she accepted gratefully, and I told her that I would bring them back if I found them. As I crept along the very rocky, but well-traveled road, I kept passing tour Jeeps coming down the hill. I stopped each one to ask if they had seen the missing hikers. Fortunately, after driving only a couple of miles, I passed a tour Jeep that reported that the missing hikers were on board. I’m not sure whether they found their wallet, at least they were safe! However, I’m pretty sure they were going to get yelled at by the worried mom at the bottom of the hill.  

A Room with a View

Schnebly Hill Road was rough, but not very technical. In a stock four-wheel drive vehicle, one might have to be mindful of their tire placement, but my Jeep had ample ground clearance with its AEV suspension system and 35” tires. I saw an older Subaru Forester on the road, and a late model Volvo SUV. While the road was certainly doable in these vehicles, it must’ve been nerve-racking at times. The road wound its way around vibrant red mesas and buttes, as it gradually ascended the plateau to the east. At the top was Schnebly Hill Vista, which overlooked Sedona. It was here that most of the tour Jeeps would turn around and head back down the hill, and beyond this point, camping was permitted. I turned right onto an extremely rocky, far less traveled forest road that followed the ridge line. Unmodified rigs need not apply. After driving only a short distance, I found a small parking spot on the edge of the ridge with an extraordinary view of Schnebly Hill Road. It was here that I settled in for the night. To be continued in A Caricature of Red Rocks - Part 2...