The Hard Push North
My northward travels, through California’s eastern Sierra Mountains marked a turning-point in my journey. It wasn’t the nature of the journey that changed, but my mindset. Due to a combination of circumstances, I was no longer so aloof in regard to my heading.
Money was tight. The web development work that provided the majority of my funding had thinned out. I was paying for an apartment that I hadn’t been to in months, and I was starting to fall behind with various financial obligations.
Furthermore, I made arrangements for my 14 year old son Cole - whom I missed dearly - to fly to Portland, Oregon, to join me for a week of overland adventure. Subsequently, I was still in central California, and I had to make absolutely certain that I was in Portland within a few weeks, to receive him at the airport.
Needless to say, I had a lot on my mind… and for the first time in nearly 15,000 miles, I was afraid, and I wasn’t sure how I’d be able to keep going.
In Pursuit of the Woods
Upon leaving San Bernardino National Forest, northward out of Big Bear Lake, I thought I’d seen the last of the desert. In hindsight, not being the least bit familiar with California, I recognize how naive this was!
I set a course for southern
Sequoia National Forest, because forest land, and Sequoia trees, right?
Not necessarily!
The southern part of
Sequoia National Forest is still fairly barren, with high-desert mountains, and limited tree coverage. I targeted Lake Isabella, passed through Kernville, and ventured northward into the forest, hoping for find an inviting place to camp and to collect experiences along the way.
The highway ran parallel to the Kern River which was rapid and absolutely stunning.
It was refreshing to see such a high-volume of moving water. Even though I was still in a hot and dry climate, the river assured me that I was heading in the correct direction.
I passed a few free, heavily-used campgrounds by the road, next to the river, but I kept going in favor of something more secluded - more primitive.
Eventually, I happened upon an eroded dirt road that descended into a valley with scattered trees and greenery, offering some moisture and relief from the sun. At the base of the valley, I discovered multiple primitive campsites next to a refreshing mountain stream. It was exactly the setting I was looking for and I was glad to have found it!
It was quiet, secluded, and the stream offered a much-needed opportunity to bathe. I would’ve happily remained there for a few nights, but I had to keep it brief, as I needed to continue pushing north.
Wasting Gas
According to my map, the main road that I drove in on continued east, where it reconnected with Route 395 north, which is a major artery that runs north-south throughout eastern California.
Unfortunately, after traveling so far into Sequoia National Forest [link_01], the mountain road was blocked due to a wildfire in the area. There was no way for me to get back to Route 395 without backtracking for approximately 60 miles.
When you’re low on funds, and you’re trying to move as efficiently as possible, having to backtrack over such a great distance really hurts!
Little Hollywood
The next logical step on my northward journey was
Lone Pine, California.
First, Lone Pine is a hub for adventurers and outdoor enthusiasts who are hiking the Sierra Mountains, Pacific Crest Trail, or scaling Mount Whitney.
Furthermore, Lone Pine is the home of
Alabama Hills. Although still a barren desert climate at the foot of the eastern Sierras, Alabama Hills is a sprawling labyrinth of rock formations amidst a vast network of primitive roads. It is an extremely photogenic locale - so photogenic that it is constantly used as a filming location for many popular movies and television shows.
Off the top of my head, the majority of the movie Tremors, with Kevin Bacon, was filmed there. In addition to the desert scenes in the first Iron Man movie.
Alabama Hills is also ideal for bouldering, rock climbing, and features some of the best vehicle-supported camping opportunities on the west coast. It’s all public land, so you drive in, explore until you find a fire circle nestled between the rocks, and settle in for a few nights!
Since it’s so easy to access off of Route 395, it’s an extremely popular location. However, there is so much space that you’re almost guaranteed to find a quiet, private, lovely campsite to call your own, no matter when you go.
Although there were plenty of options, I spent hours exploring and looking for that perfect campsite. I eventually found a nice flat spot between some rocks, near the base of the mountain. There, I popped my camper, and deployed my
ARB awning for some shade with the intention of spending a couple nights.
During my stay on July 19th, 2017, a film crew showed up a short distance from camp. There were catering trucks, a motor coach, police escorts, and one of those flat black Porsche Cayennes with a camera rig! I’m not sure I’ll ever know what was being filmed, but it was certainly fun to watch!
Alabama Hills was one of the highlights of my cross-country journey, despite all that was on my mind at the time. After spending only one night, I cut my visit short due to unrelenting heat, and continued pushing north…
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