V7E2 - Of Ancient Roads and Infestations
By: Chris Shontz / @venture4WD
Now firmly in Vermont, I connected with my friend Peter Vollers, who owns and operates
Vermont Overland, an organization that hosts events for enthusiasts of both cycling and vehicle-supported adventure.
I met Peter years ago, through the Vermont Overland Rally, which is now known as the
Vermont Overland Birdwatching Safari. Whether or not birdwatching is your cup of tea, the emphasis of this event is placed on the vehicular exploration of Vermont’s primitive road system, in addition to experiencing the region’s historic villages, rich culture, and local fare.
His love for Vermont is contagious and I could think of few better with whom to experience some of the state’s less-traveled roads…
Not to mention, he invited me to pop my camper in his backyard, next to his pool.
Technical Terrain
Last week, I introduced you to Vermont’s Class 4 road designation, which denotes an ancient thoroughfare that is still open to the public, but is no longer maintained. While most of these roads are subdued two-tracks that meander between property boundaries, there are some that have eroded away extensively, giving way to rugged four-wheel drive routes.
Peter led the way in his white, highly-modified Range Rover Classic, lovingly named “The Bumble,” presumably after the yeti in the television classic, Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer.
For the first several miles, following a pit stop for some soft-serve ice cream, our drive was little more than a leisurely stroll through Vermont’s countryside, as we followed scenic two-tracks and passed numerous idyllic farm homes.
Then, things got really interesting as Peter turned onto a primitive route that wound its way up the side of a densely forested mountain. The road was distinct, but severely deteriorated as The Bumble effortlessly traversed a boulder-strewn ascent.
I followed closely in my orange Jeep, which had just enough ground clearance for the terrain, despite the occasional scrape or thud. One boulder protruded onto the road as a sort of wedge, which we had to creep up-and-over using naught but the sidewalls of our tires.
After negotiating a couple more twists and turns, The Bumble and Orangie (“Orangie?”) completed the climb with grace and aplomb. The road flattened out and became far more subdued at the top of the mountain, as if the gnarley lower section hadn’t even happened.
Though I don’t usually encounter such technical terrain during my travels, it was refreshing to put some of the Jeep Wrangler Rubicon’s best qualities to use.
Peter and I wrapped up our afternoon of backcountry exploration with a delicious dinner at
Worthy Kitchen in Woodstock, Vermont.
Warren Falls
On my way north, I stopped at
Warren Falls, an impressive system of waterfalls just south of
Warren, Vermont. With a large gravel parking lot just off of pavement, this is a very popular destination for hiking, relaxing by the falls, or taking a refreshing dip - especially on a hot summer day!
The cascades themselves are just a short walk from the parking lot, and you can either enjoy sitting on the rocks at the top of the falls, or follow a footpath down to their base where you can wade across the stream, and soak in any of several natural pools.
While the formation of waterfalls is impressive, it’s their glistening clarity that causes them to stand out. As you walk through the water and look down at your feet, it’s as though you’re looking through glass!
Lakeside Camping
Before I parted ways with Peter, he gave me a lead on a secluded place to camp on the shore of an undeveloped lake in the northern part of the state.
“It’s down a short Class 4 road, it’s on the water, and it’s only accessible via four-wheel drive, so you should have total privacy.”
He gave me the coordinates; I entered them into Google Maps and hit the road. My destination was a couple of hours away, but I could at least enjoy the drive through Vermont, and stop for a burrito along the way.
Finally, north of
Greensboro, paved roads gave way to dirt, and a short distance later, I arrived at the head of the suggested Class 4 road. It was degraded beyond my expectations, but given it was Peter’s recommendation, I should’ve expected nothing less.
This time, I wasn’t challenged by rocks or eroded washouts - it was deadfall and downed limbs that hindered passage. Fortunately, with careful maneuvering, the Jeep managed to squeeze through the tight spots, and I arrived on the shore of a lake that I had all to myself!
Commence the Infestation
Normally, I would consider this secret spot the perfect place to camp.
The lake was undeveloped, so privacy was total. It wasn’t far from town, but the condition of the road made access unlikely. It was a perfect grassy clearing with enough room for a single vehicle, or maybe two, and only the gentle lapping of water could be heard.
However, in early June, after a long winter, hordes of voracious mosquitoes rendered the site nearly uninhabitable.
With stubborn determination, I deployed my
ARB 2500 Awning and
Deluxe Screen Room, but it wasn’t before I was brutally devoured by the merciless swarm.
I resolved to stay for two nights despite the bug situation, but for the duration, I struggled to find relief. As I entered and exited my camper and/or the screen room, several more mosquitoes would find their way into my living space. My only means of escape was by taking the kayak out onto the center of the lake!
All I wanted was to make the best of a beautiful place, but by the end of my stay, I couldn’t get out of there fast enough.
Futility at Brighton
Returning to the road helped to restore my comfort level.
I spent a good part of the day exploring the town of
Newport, on Vermont’s northern border, where I also sat down to plan my next stop. There, I decided to travel east, to
Brighton State Park at Island Pond.
Brighton State Park is a developed campground featuring spacious, well-groomed sites located on the shore of a bustling lake. There are picnic tables, fire rings, a very friendly staff, and some immaculate restrooms.
I had hoped that the mosquitoes would be less of an issue at a developed campground, when in fact, they were worse… despite my best efforts to subdue them with a campfire and various other countermeasures.
It was clear that bugs were going to be an issue for days to come.
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